Creating HDR images in Photoshop

[David24]

So I took a stab at it. Now what you're supposed to do is take 3 or more pictures at different exposure settings to do it right. But me not having a high end camera or a tripod, I just grabbed a .jpeg photo off of my digital camera and did made a few adjustments to the exposure settings within Photoshop (CS4). I took the pictures, merged to HDR, messed with the settings along the way and tried to get the best quality. I also used the Shadow/Highlight adjustment to even out the light and shadows...

Original:

HDR edit:

Now I know it's not a "true" HDR image since (1) it's 8-bit and (2) I didn't use RAW images, but is this the closest I can get to HDR images without having to take multiple pictures at different exposure levels? I'm hoping someone here knows about this stuff.

 

[NossedEvo]

Nice work, considering the equipment limitations. Assuming you're working from multiple similar images: do you make lots of duplicate layers, of each of the multiples? Some adjustments can't be reversed. I think it's best to turn a dup ' layer off, and work from a new layer, if you think the adjustment might be heavy handed. Toggle the two (or more) on, and off, and take the better image. Using curves, and thresholds, are less help with the 8 bit, but might help with more subtle graduation. If you Costco, keep your eye out on their discount bins. I've got some great deals on photography, and Photoslop books, several times there.

I just replaced my old Rebel, with another old Rebel, that my wife hasn't knocked over. Yet.

All I had to work with, for far too long, was her little Kodak point and shoot. Canon wanted to charge $1k to repair my EOS XTi. I bought an unused-used one for $150. I feel your pain. Raw rocks in Photoslop.

Edit: So the short answer, imo, is yes. With the blown out portions (windshield view) you can't really exploit the process, because there is not alternative info (different exposure level). I have a picture to do, of a really garish piece of equipment, that might really benefit from the HDR. I'll give it a whirl, and add a post. Thanks for the idea.

 

[David24]

Yes I was working from the same duplicates- 3 to be exact. What I did was go into Photoshop and go Image>Adjustments>Exposure and mimic the exposure time. One was -3 (dark), 0 (normal) and the last was 3 (light). Then I merged to HDR in Photoshop.

It's the bare bones basics of the process but IMO it looks a lot better than an original digital photo. There are some tutorials I read that had some great ways to make the picture really look like a real HDR image and I used a few of them to get the final result above.

Are you using Photoshop? I'd like to see what you can come up with (y)

 

[NossedEvo]

I like to mess in Photoshop. Just have CS running right now. CS2 causes a runtime error on anything but XP Pro. The new laptop is letting me play in PS for the time being.

I'll be upgrading soon, but want to check into some things.

CS only has a merge, under Automate, that does a Panorama deal. I'll have to get CS2 running, or use a computer at the school. I have a lot to do before I'm ready for the money shot.

Doing a project on a bargain PC/recognizing web opportunity, and it's gonna be image intensive. A component is a personally, innovative, process. HDR qualifies.

Here's an early compo shot. Just used transparency levels, and different exposures merged.

 

[Spider-Dan]

Looks like you got the concept down with doing it in Photoshop, but I think even the simple point and shoots have manual exposure adjustments built into them. On an old Olympus point and shoot I have, and even the Canon I use now (when it's in non-manual mode), you can access this by hitting the up arrow on the dial (The icon for this is a box with a diagonal slash, and a + and - on each side of the slash). There you can adjust the exposure from -2 to +2, with 0 of course being the default.

On cameras that have more features or a manual adjust mode, this is done by taking pictures with the same shutter speed but with different aperture sizes.

There's a free program called HDRshop (V1 is free to download, you have to purchase V2, http://www.hdrshop.com) from what I heard does a better job at merging HDRs than what Photoshop does.

 

[NossedEvo]

Great link there Spider-Dan. Download, for version one, is a snap. Extremely quick/lite.

Tried 'intuitive' method -- no love.

Guess I will have to break down, and read the instructions. Very cool resource. Thanks!

's all good.

Additionally; associate's wife is giving me a copy of Photoshop (Mac) for my new G5. On pins and needles waiting to see which version it is. Hoping for CS2 (or 3), but no matter, the price is right. Got a free G3 'Grape' off Kijiji at 3:00 a.m. today. (That's what instigated the conversation on Mac/Photoslop.)

I love free. Thinking of going to the Porsche dealer to see how far this good-luck-streak will go! :yessir: